Wendy's Great Australian Adventure: Part 4

DAY 8 – Darwin and the Ghan

We got an early start this morning, and took the scheduled Ghan bus transfer to the railway station. It was quite a large bus with an elderly group of primarily Aussies, excited to get to the train for their journey south.

Upon arrival at the Darwin station, our suitcases were offloaded from the bus and transferred to the train, while we stayed on the bus. The bus then drove along the rail platform, dropping guests off at their assigned train car. The train itself is 774 meters long (around 2200 feet), so the drop-off saves guests a long walk in the heat!

The train itself is immaculately maintained, with a friendly and helpful crew to welcome you on board. The Gold Twin cabin is quite small, but the space is well used. It has a nice bench seat and table for relaxing during the journey, enjoying the view from the wide window in the cabin. The walkway has windows every few yards, so you can leave your cabin door open, and get views on both sides. The private bathroom is small, but again, uses the space well. There is a toilet, sink and shower all in the one room…with a shower curtain to protect the toilet/sink areas when showering…there is surprisingly a decent amount of room for a shower.

The single cabin is downright tiny, with one small bench seat, a stool/footrest, and a sink that folds down. The cabins do not have their own bathroom, so they share the showers and toilets with other single cabin travelers in the same car. Once the bed is down, the door doesn’t fully open…but it is a cozy setup.

There is a lounge car, which fills up immediately with guests wanting to enjoy a beverage and the company of their fellow travelers.  Dining is in the Queen Adelaide car, with white linen table settings, and a menu of several courses (including options for each course).

We stopped in Katherine for a few hours, and disembarked for a tour that we had selected at boarding. We took the Nitmiluk Gorge Cruise. Several large coaches picked guests up at the Katherine station, and drove us through town (with driver commentary), out to the gorge. The boats each hold about 50 passengers, and cruise leisurely up the river, with entertaining commentary provided by the driver/guide. It was a hot day, but the gorge is beautiful, and well worth a visit. We even saw a few small freshwater crocs relaxing by the shore. The gorge is great for

kayaking/canoeing as well, if visiting the area on your own. We were amazed at the hundreds of flying foxes hanging from the trees at the shoreline, chattering and fanning themselves in the heat.

Back on the train, in time for a drink and dinner. While out of the cabin, the crew comes by to turn down the beds, bunk style…including a ladder and guard for the upper bunk. Ready for a good nights sleep, with the gentle rocking of the train car!

DAY 9 – the Ghan and Alice Springs

We were awakened by a knock on the door, and a cup of coffee and tea for each of us. The sun was not up yet, so we were lucky to see the sunrise over the red center as we chugged along in the train toward Alice Springs.

We arrived into Alice Springs just after breakfast, and hopped into a taxi to our hotel, the Double Tree by Hilton. It’s a bit out of town, so the driver waited and took us back to the central market at

the Todd Mall. It was surprisingly big for a small town, taking up several blocks with arts/crafts and food booths for the most part…only one produce booth to be found. Apparently this weekend is extra busy because of the Beanie Festival going on (yes, the beanies that we wear on our heads in the winter…although these are more like works of art and a price to match). After our sausage lunch and mango sorbet dessert, we walked the 20 minutes or so back to our hotel, along the Todd River (which, according to the map, is “usually dry”).

In the afternoon, we were picked up by an AAT Kings bus for a city tour, A Town Like Alice. Our

driver/guide, Jamie, grew up in the area and was incredibly knowledgeable on all things Alice. We visited the School of the Air (which educates students all over the outback by remote methods), the Telegraph Station, the Royal Flying Doctors Service center and museum, and the Reptile Centre. It was a great way to get around to these sites that are not all in easy walking distance, and gain extra insight from Jamie along the way. The area has a fascinating history and character that just comes to life on a tour like this.

This evening, we walked down the street to the Lasseter Casino, but actually ended up back at our hotel to eat dinner Hanuman, which has a wide variety of Asian/Indian cuisine.

Wish we had more time to spend here in Alice Springs, but will save that for another trip. Tomorrow we push on to Ayers Rock.

DAY 10 – Alice Springs and Ayers Rock

It was an early morning start to catch our AAT Kings bus tour from Alice Springs to Ayers Rock. The entire trip took about 5 hours, including 2 comfort stops. The first stop was for about 25 minutes at a camel farm, where we could grab a breakfast sandwich, coffee/tea, and hop on a camel for a quick ride (but we saved our camel ride for later in the day). Our second stop was also for about 25 minutes at Mt Ebenezer Roadhouse, perfect for a cappuccino and a snack…and photos of the road that seemingly goes forever in either direction, with no civilization in sight outside of the Roadhouse.

Our driver was Gill Cairns, who provided commentary for most of the trip (history, flora, fauna, and suggestions and information about Ayers Rock). She also played a documentary on board about the first aboriginal man who was granted citizenship, as a result of his popular artwork…but his story was rather depressing.

We arrived in Ayers Rock around 1pm, and were dropped off at our hotel, Sails in the Desert. The

hotel lobby has a very welcoming and open feel to it…modern and airy. The actual room section is a bit of a maze, but once we found our room, we were pleased with the large size and local character…although it’s not without its quirks. The most bizarre quirk is that the sheets were loud. Yes, I said loud…strange, I know! The best way I can describe it is that they sounded like crumpling paper every time you moved.

We had a quick walk around the Town Square, and lunch at Gecko’s (mostly pizza, pasta and salads) before we were picked up for our camel ride that would take us to dinner. If you’ve never ridden a camel, this is a MUST! The camel farm in itself is impressive…started by a guy named Chris, who got his first camel at age 15 and was hooked.

They get all their camels from the wild (not a difficult thing to do in Australia, given the huge population of wild camels), and put them through a thorough training program. We had a chance to meet Milkshake, their 5-month old rescue camel, before gearing up…she is adorable, and has a thing for thumb sucking (human thumbs, that is, obviously not her own). There were 5 of us on the ride, and we each had our own camel…sometimes they double up with 2 to a camel, depending on the size of the group. The camels are tethered to each other, front to back, and are accustomed to slowly meandering down the path in a line. The views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta were stunning, and the camels provided constant entertainment. Our cameleer/guide, Chrissy, was fantastic, and has an obvious passion for camels. She talked about camel history in Australia, the camel farm, the flora/fauna, and told a few silly camel jokes…all while riding the lead camel and facing backwards much of the time.

We arrived at the Sounds of Silence dinner site, where the other diners were already enjoying their champagne and canapes (including crocodile and “skippy” – aka kangaroo), and taking photos of us like we were celebrities. After about 15 minutes with the rest of the folks, enjoying the limited sunset (too much cloud cover, unfortunately), we were all invited into the dining area and chose our

seats with a family of 4 and a single lady…all Australian. By then it was mighty chilly, so most of us were bundled up in jackets and scarves/hats to stay warm. There were heaters amongst the tables, but their reach was limited, so warm clothes were a must.

Dinner itself was quite the affair with 3 courses (the main course and dessert were buffet style) and local beer/wine, accompanied by a series of entertainers, including a didgeridoo player, aboriginal dancers, and a star guide. There was a great variety of food to choose from, and the quality was very good (especially the caramelized kangaroo!). As the night came to an end, we were shuttled back to the hotel in the bus, since our camels had long since clocked out for the day.

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Wendy's Great Australian Adventure: Part 3

DAY 5 – Darwin to Bamurru

This morning was fairly relaxed, so we took advantage of the hotel coin laundry while we had breakfast. We only had to walk a couple of blocks before coming across a busy (and delicious) breakfast spot called Ducks Nuts…a rather odd name for a restaurant, and a logo to match!

We walked around town a bit more, getting a feel for Darwin. There are quite a few shops and restaurants on the main streets of town, plus lots of WWII historical sites, and a few entertainment spots like Crocosaurus Cove.

In the afternoon, we taxied out to the Air Frontier office at Darwin Airport, and boarded our Cessna 270 for the 30-minute scenic flight across the floodplains and rivers of the north coast to our landing spot at Swim Creek. We were met by Riley, our classic Aussie outback guide, in the 4WD vehicle that would get us to the lodge site at Bamurru Plains in about 30 minutes. The drive was unpaved, but not at all rough, since we were traveling at a leisurely pace. We were immediately greeted by buffalo, just meandering and grazing about…so the photo safari begins, before we even get there! Riley was fantastic, answering our many questions and pointing out the different types of buffalo they have on the property.

On arrival at Bamurru, we are greeted by Martika with a cool eucalyptus towel and glass of chilled rosemary and thyme water…perfectly refreshing! We were escorted to our bungalow, which is stilted above ground, with sweeping views out to the floodplains. There is a low king-sized bed, and a single mattress in the screened-in porch area for Skylar. The bathroom is probably the best part…it’s a separate room without A/C, and has the feeling of being outside, with a huge/open shower that features a rain shower head. The use of stone, metal siding, and wood beams gives it a very rustic and outdoorsy feel. The property operates on solar power and generator, so we still have the convenience of in-room lighting and A/C.

The main lodge is a cozy central gathering place. The deck is stunning…padded bench seats with overhead tin roofing line both sides, while an infinity pool takes front and center. The view from the deck is of wide open space that gradually turns into wetland a few hundred yards away (at least this time of year…as the dry season continues, the water will recede). There are buffalos, wallabies, termite mounds, and birds all over the place. The pandanus trees add a Dr Suess-on-safari look, and are great for photographs.

We went on an afternoon 4WD trip to the nursery area, since they are just finishing up the calving season, and there are dozens and dozens of baby buffalo huddling close to their mothers. Wallabies are everywhere! They are skittish, and take off in a horizontal hop/run as the truck approaches, and then pause to look back and evaluate us, once they feel that they are safely out of our reach….their tiny little mouths still munching on the snack that we just interrupted. We even saw one wallaroo. There are tons of birds, including cockatoos, egrets, jabarus, kites, etc…all chattering at once.

We made it back to the lodge just in time for a stunning sunset, as the fiery red globe slipped quickly beyond the wetlands and distant tree line.

After a fire and canapes on the deck, we sat down to dinner in the main lodge with the other guests (Bill and Kim from Perth; a hunter from Texas and his guide, and Riley). We enjoyed an entrée of smoked salmon and cream cheese; a main course of duck with carrot and broccolini on the side, and dessert of homemade ice cream and berries. Beverages are included, so local Aussie wine and beer accompanied the meal. With very full bellies, we walked back to our rooms, dodging frogs along the way, and settled in for a night amongst the wildlife.

DAY 6 – Bamurru

We awoke to the sounds of buffalo and bird chatter this morning…and looked out of our room to see them meandering and grazing, just feet away. Even the wild horses made it to our doorstep. We had a hearty breakfast of eggs, tomatoes, spinach, and bacon, along with a selection of fruit, breads/muffins, and cereals.

At about 9:00am, we headed out on our first adventure of the day…taking the airboat to the Kingfisher area. What an amazing experience! As we motored across the floodplains, we saw birds scattering left and right, and buffalo hustling out of the way. One moment we were on the wide open plain, and the next amongst the paper bark trees with colorful water lilies in all directions, and dragonflies zipping about. Riley turned the motor off periodically, and we just took in the sounds of nature, and enjoyed the light breeze. It was absolutely beautiful…seemingly a world away from civilization. One of the most majestic views was of the Jaburu taking flight, with its massive wingspan. Bamurru (the magpie goose) were absolutely everywhere, scattering in flight at the sound of the boat approaching, or scuttling along the reeds with their young in tow.

Back to the lodge for a dip in the pool, a delicious chicken salad lunch, and some down time during the peak heat of the day. The kerala (cockatoos) were on a rampage this afternoon…squawking and talking, and rolling around on the grass. Hard to believe how noisy it was for several hours! Gotta love the sounds of nature.

Our afternoon 4WD started at 4:00pm, and was guided by Estelle…a young gal originally from

Tasmania, who has a vast knowledge of the local Northern Territory wildlife, including visual ID and behaviors. We headed out to Pandanus Point, stopping many times along the way to learn about the local trees, vegetation, birds, ants, mammals…anything and everything that crossed our path. We even tasted the tangy green rear ends of the green ants. As the sun set, we enjoyed canapes and wine/beer at the point, surrounded by buffalo, wallabies, and birds.

Dinner was served around 7:30pm, and started with a salmon tartare, followed by rack of lamb with potatoes and broccoli and ending with a delectable chocolate mousse. After learning more about Estelle’s Tasmania background and tourist recommendations, we called it a night…watching for roaming buffalo and frogs/toads in our path.

DAY 7 – Bamurru to Darwin

We got an earlier start today, since we have to leave at 11:00am. Breakfast at 7:30am, and then off on the airboat with Estelle driving/guiding. We started out heading toward Pandanus Point, where we spotted a number of unique birds…including the Comb-Crested Jacana (jesus bird), that seemingly walks on water. We spotted the dad with two little chicks…dad’s crest turns from bright red to yellow in a time of stress, and he plays decoy while the young chicks drop below water for safety, just leaving their tiny beaks out of the water for air. We also spotted the White Bellied Sea Eagle nest, with one of the eagles resting inside. The nest is massive, typically up to 2 meters or so in diameter, and located high up in a tree.

Estelle drove us as far out over the wetland as possible, until it started to get too shallow for even the airboat. Then with the motor off, we enjoyed the sights and sounds of the birds and buffalo while enjoying a nibble (fruit, muffins, juice, and water). Such a peaceful place, and stunningly beautiful, as far as the eye can see.

We bid the staff and guests farewell, and rode out on the 4WD with Riley to the airstrip, where we were picked up for the bumpy flight back to Darwin. There has been unusual cloud cover these last few days, which raised the heat/humidity and made the flight a bit bouncy.

Back in Darwin, we taxied to the DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade, and grabbed a quick bite to eat before our AAT Kings City Sights tour. It was a great overview of the area in a small coach with about 15-20 other tourists. The driver gave commentary as we drove around the city, and we stopped at several historic sites, including Survivors Lookout, East Point, and the Botanic Gardens (with a nice rainforest walk). Unfortunately our Sunset Fish & Chips Cruise was cancelled due to boat issues, so we just ventured into town for dinner instead. The city was bustling with visitors for the V8 Supercars event, so I suspect it was a livelier Friday night than usual.

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Wendy's Great Australian Adventure: Part 2

DAY 4 - Sydney to Darwin

We woke up to a cool, crisp morning in Sydney! Steve and I were on a mission to get back to La Renaissance Patisserie for another almond croissant, but found that The Rocks district in Sydney is a little slower to wake up than the main business district (CBD)…so we settled on a different café for a quick bite and coffee. No almond croissants, but they made a delicious cappuccino and ham/cheese croissant.

Today we’re off to the Northern Territory! We were picked up in a nice mini-van by our Royale Limousines driver, who whisked us off to the Sydney domestic airport. I always enjoy chatting with the drivers about their lives in Sydney, and experiences driving tourists like us around. They are so friendly!

We flew on Virgin Australia to Darwin, which is a 4-5 hour flight from Sydney. The Virgin crew couldn’t be nicer, but their food selection was pretty limited (not included, extra cost on this flight)…by the time they got to us, it was egg sandwiches or egg sandwiches. Good thing we’re not picky eaters!

On arrival in Darwin, we took a taxi to our hotel, the DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade…only about a 15-minute drive, and under AUD$30. It’s MUCH warmer here in Darwin! Temps are in the 80s, and it’s their dry season, so it’s perfectly comfortable. We checked in, and then met a friend who showed us around the city. Kerrie took us to the Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, a free museum that showcased several excellent exhibits, including one about Cyclone Tracy, which destroyed the city on Christmas in 1974. Other exhibits are on aboriginal art, local wildlife, and history; they even have a huge crocodile named Sweetheart on display...the most famous croc of the NT. We also went on a nice walk in search of wild wallabies, and saw close to a dozen racing around the fields…so cute!

Kerrie and her husband Barry (or “Baz” as the Aussies say), took us to a phenomenal seafood restaurant called Pee Wee’s at the Point. I had the traditional local seafood dish of wild caught saltwater Barramundi, and it just melted in my mouth! Steve and Sky absolutely loved their meals as well…braised pork belly and roasted duckling.

Another fantastic day…we’re excited to see more of Darwin tomorrow!

Interested in having your own Australian Adventure?  Visit our site to view sample itineraries or call us at 1-800-554-9059 to get started!