Arctic Watch: Part 2

One of our Travel Consultants traveled to the Arctic for an adventure filled with exotic wildlife, surreal landscapes, and extreme solitude.  Follow her journey on the blog!

Day 7

More high wind and cloudy skies today, but again this is good news as the wind continues to push the ice out of the inlet. This is definitely not the trip we were anticipating as we expected that the beluga whales would be here by now. Supposedly, the weather is about two to three weeks behind schedule so the ice has not melted enough yet to allow the beluga whales to enter the inlet. To keep us busy today there were three options for outings. My husband and I chose to go sit near a known Arctic fox den in hopes of seeing this

elusive animal. Others had gone several times during the past week and had only seen an adult female once for a brief time. At this particular den 13 cubs and 2 adult females were observed about 2 weeks ago. To get to the den, a group of four guests and our guide, Alex, rafted across the river, drove a few miles in a UNIMOG (a heavy duty military-like vehicle built by the Swiss in 1962), then hiked about a quarter of a mile to the den. Luck was with us! As we approached the den we could see three or four little fox cubs playing outside on the top of the mound. We immediately dropped to the ground and watched. Every few minutes we would move forward a few feet and finally settled in about 100 feet from the den. Eventually, the little cubs got tired and went inside the den to rest. About an hour later someone spotted a fox trotting across the tundra. It was the adult female coming to check in on the cubs. As she approached the den five cubs popped out of the various entrances to the den and bombarded the female. Some started nursing and others were playing with each other. After about 15 minutes, the female took off again and the cubs played for a while before going back inside the den. We sat in place for about 4 more hours in the freezing wind in hopes of seeing the foxes with no more luck. But what a wonderful day it was!

Day 8

Arctic Watch Lodge has only week-long stays due to the distance from Yellowknife and the difficulty getting in and out of the area. As such, all flights arriving to and departing from Arctic Watch Lodge are only on Fridays – today. This day is called “turnover day” by the staff. One group of guests arrive as the other group of guests departs for home. Today, however, the clouds are very low, the wind is rather high, and it is pouring rain. Therefore, the plane cannot land so the guests who were supposed to fly in today must spend another night in Yellowknife and the guests who were supposed to leave today cannot.  When booking the trip all guests were encouraged to add an extra day or two in Yellowknife  prior to flying home for this very reason. The guests who are stuck at Arctic Watch are not charged for the extra night at the lodge. On the other side, the guests who have to stay another night in Yellowknife and miss a night at the lodge are not reimbursed for the night missed at the lodge. This is the perfect reason to get travel insurance for trips - especially to Arctic Watch Lodge!

Since the weather was so bad today no activities were planned. As such, guests hung out in the huge living room, which is heated, and played ping pong, worked on puzzles, chatted, read, and changed their hotel and plane reservations. Since my husband and I are staying for two weeks we are not affected and so I opted for a hike near camp with four other guests.

Day 9

The morning excursion consisted of driving out to the Badlands located south of the lodge in the ATV's.  It was rough driving given the mud. About 45 minutes out from the camp one of the gators got stuck in the mud

up to the axle. For some reason our guides had not packed shovels or planks as they had done previously. So we radioed for help. While waiting for assistance to arrive we explored the mud flats and took photos. Getting stuck in the mud at Arctic Watch is par for the course.

After lunch and as the guests leaving the lodge one day late headed out to the air strip, Valeria (the beluga whale researcher), Nansen (son of the owners), my husband, and I headed out to Polar Bear Point. Valeria wanted to put the hydrophone in the water to see if she could hear any beluga whales. Once at the point and on the ice we unloaded the equipment and Valeria hooked it up to the computer with special software. However, the computer and hydrophone weren't communicating so we packed up the equipment and returned to the lodge to meet the new group of people and dine on delicious food.

Day 10

Off to Polar Bear Point again this morning to check on the ice and see if any beluga whales are out in the

Northwest Passage. The Passage is clear of ice and a part of the inlet is now open so we hope that the beluga whales will show up soon! The clock is ticking for us, but no beluga whales today and no polar bears either.

After a hearty lunch of tomato basil soup, sandwiches, and gigantic chocolate chips cookies, four of us and Nansen rafted across the river then hopped on the bombas for a 4-hour excursion to Muskox Ridge. We drove over hill and dale and across creeks and rivers on our ATV's – my husband riding behind me hanging onto his camera gear with one hand and the ATV with his other hand as I drove – bouncing along over the rough terrain. He said my driving of the ATV was perfect, but that it was one of the worst rides he'd ever had! How is that even possible? During our excursion we saw about 20 muskoxen in the meadows, a snowy owl off in the distance, and plovers along the edges of the creeks. We also hiked down into a bog just to see what we could see and stopped by the fox den to see if any cubs were out playing. No luck at the fox den so off we went looking for other animals and enjoying the amazing but barren Arctic scenery.

Day 11

A full day is in store for 10 guests and 2 guides today. We have decided that since there are no beluga whales in the Cunningham Inlet and no chance of them showing up here in the near future that we would head out to Cape Anne to see a Thule site. Cape Anne is located approximately 40 kilometers and a 2.5- to 3-hour ATV ride from camp. Thule are Inuit ancestors from about 1100-1400 A.D. and the archaeological site is a circle of flat rocks wedged into the ground to create a base with ½ of the floor covered with flat rocks - the sleeping areas – and the other ½ left as ground that was used as the cooking area.  So, we all piled onto the ATV's (gators and bombas) and headed out around 10 am. Sadly, my husband was not feeling well today and opted not to join us.

It is rough and slow going on the ATV's as there is mud, snow, ice, and rocks/shale covering the very hilly terrain. We stop at various look-out points to check the sea ice for polar bears and the sea for belugas. At each stop we see nothing so move on. Our lunch spot is located at a point where the land protrudes out into the sea as a small peninsula and is where the strong Northwest Passage currents push the floating ice onto the shore creating strange-looking hills and piles of ice about 20-30 feet in height called pressure ridges. It is beautiful and the colors of blue are wide-ranging.

Finally, we start the last leg of the trip toward the Thule site. I am in the last of four vehicles in the back seat looking out to sea. I notice several white things bobbing at the surface of the ocean. At first I think they are just more smallish ice chunks floating along in the current. Then I realize they are going under and popping back up again. I yelled out to the guest who was driving to stop, I hopped out of the ATV, and ran for the shoreline. BELUGAS!!!! Bobbing, white and grey beluga whales. Eventually, the other ATV drivers realized that we had stopped and came back to check on us thinking we had gotten stuck in the mud. Once everyone

realized that the reason we stopped was because we spotted whales they all grabbed their cameras and we headed for the Cape Anne River inlet. There were about 85 belugas (as best that we could count) doing their social behaviors of rubbing on the shallow sand to help them molt, spy-hopping, waving tails high into the air, doing the banana (head and tail arched up in the air at the same time), playing, splashing, and communicating. Beluga whales are called the “canaries of the sea” since they click, squeal, chirp, whistle, and make noises that sound like a horse, a cow, a chicken, a foghorn, and like they are “blowing raspberries.” They are just plain noisy whales. They make hundreds of different sounds when communicating with other belugas. We spent about 90 minutes watching them and taking photos. It was so exciting and fantastic!! I have never seen anything like this before. But it also made for a very long 10-hour day trip. All of us were freezing by the time we reached camp – but it was so worth it!!

Valeria, the beluga whale scientist, and two others went out to Cape Anne Point at 9 pm to put the hydrophone in the water to see what calls the belugas were making and to get a better count (remember it's light 24 hours a day). On the way they got stuck in the mud and it took them 2 hours to dig themselves free! Once they made it to Cape Anne they saw only a few belugas migrating several hundred feet from shore in the Northwest Passage and none were socializing in the shallows of the inlet as they had been doing earlier in the day. They also saw several narwhal whales migrating.

Day 12

All the guests are very eager to head back out to Cape Anne River inlet in hopes of seeing beluga whales. However, only 9 people can go due to space restrictions on the ATV's and no one who was out there yesterday is allowed to go out to Cape Anne today, which is understandable. Therefore, my husband, who was ill yesterday but suddenly feeling better today (the arrival of belugas has a way of doing that to a person), headed northwest to Cape Anne River inlet. Meanwhile, 5 other guests and I headed southeast to Lake Inukshuk to fish for Arctic char, a kind of salmon. The ride to Lake Inukshuk took us about 3 hours on the ATV's. We stopped at various locations along the way to watch the muskoxen, observe the fox den in hopes of observing frolicking fox cubs, and to check out a bowhead whale jawbone protruding out of the ground. The open, far-reaching scenery is incredible consisting of scree-covered slopes in various shades of brown, meadows and bogs in a variety of green and yellow hues, and crystal-clear water flowing in the streams with small groups of muskox foraging on the landscape. There is absolutely nothing else on the 

landscape except the lodge and no man-made sounds except our voices and vehicles. The vegetation is sparse and that which does exist is very low-growing. The grasses rarely exceed 5 to 6 inches in height. The Arctic willow tree grows prostrate on the ground and rarely reaches more than 2 inches in height. A 2-inch Arctic willow tree is about 200 years old because the growing period is so short (only about 6-8 weeks).

Lake Inukshuk was still frozen except about 30 feet around the edges. After lunch everyone went fishing for char at the river mouth. Within 10 minutes the first fish was caught. We kept the first three fish, each about 24 inches long, to take back to camp for sushi, and the remaining 13 fish caught over the next two hours were released. Once everyone was done fishing we all piled back onto the ATV's and returned to the camp. It was a wonderful day with great company.

Sadly, my husband did not have as enjoyable a day as I had. One of the ATV's got stuck in the mud and had to be dug out, they did not see any beluga whales at the Camp Anne River inlet or anywhere along the way, they were all cold when they returned as the wind had really picked up, and morale was low.

To start planning your own Arctic adventure, contact one of our travel consultants at 1-800-554-9059 or info@otadventures.com - and check out this sample itinerary!

Arctic Watch Lodge: In the Land of the Midnight Sun

One of our Travel Consultants traveled to the Arctic for an adventure filled with exotic wildlife, surreal landscapes, and extreme solitude.  Follow her journey on the blog!

Day 1

The scene 20,000 feet below me as I look out the window of the plane is of snow and frozen ice with an occasional patch of aqua blue sea water and blue sky. It is spectacular. Our charter flight, on a Dash 8 (twin propeller plane that seats 28 passengers), left out of Yellowknife, Canada, this morning, then made a stop in Gjoa Haven for fuel, and is now headed further north to Arctic Watch Lodge located on the bank of Cunningham River Inlet on Somerset Island in the high Arctic. Somerset Island is located approximately 1,800 miles north of Calgary and about 900 miles north of Yellowknife at latitude (or parallel) 74° North within the Arctic Circle.

As we landed the sun was shining, the sky was crystal clear, and the temperature was a high of 40° Fahrenheit (F). My husband and I have come here in hopes of seeing polar bears, beluga whales, Arctic foxes, muskox, and other Arctic wildlife and plants.

After disembarking, we walked a few hundred feet to the river and had to be ferried across the river in big yellow rafts to get from the landing strip to the lodge. I use the phrase “landing strip” loosely as it is merely an area of land on the scree-covered landscape that has been graded. There is no paved landing runway or even a traffic control tower, just a wind sock to aid the bush pilots in landing.

I later learned that the owners, Richard Weber and Josée Auclair, made the landing strip using a small bull dozer. To get the bull dozer from Resolute Bay on Cornwallis Island - where a cargo plane delivered it - to Arctic Watch on Somerset Island Richard and one of his friends drove the bull dozer 60 miles over the ice that is the Northwest Passage in the winter.  It took them about a week to do it and they had to keep checking the ice with a corer to make sure that it was thick enough (minimum of 30 inches of ice).

Day 1 Camp

The “lodge” itself is made up of several large and small permanent white canvas tents on wooden foundations

that make up the living room, dining room, shower room (yes, shared showers), kitchen, and the guest and staff rooms. I was fully aware that we would be “glamping” (glamorous camping), but it didn't really sink in until I saw our “room”: a 12' x 12' tent furnished with a queen bed on a wooden frame, a small shelf unit, a small sink piped only with cold water, a small marine toilet hidden by a zippered canvas curtain for privacy, and no heater. The only heated rooms are the dining room, living room, and shower room. Luckily, we packed well!

At dinner we met the owners, their sons, the staff, and our fellow adventurers. Thus, we began our Arctic safari!

Day 2

We survived the night in the tent and didn't freeze! Hot water bottles at our feet, hats on our heads, and many layers in between kept us very warm. Other than the unheated tents the biggest problem is that it is light 24 hours a day in the Arctic. So we also had to sleep with shirts over our eyes to block the light! Arctic

Flowers

The lodge is situated on the edge of Cunningham Inlet which leads out into the Barrow Strait, part of the Northwest Passage. This morning after breakfast a group of 9 guests and our guides, Catherine and Alex, headed for Polar Bear Point – after our training session on the ATV's (all-terrain vehicles). We will use the ATV's as our main source of transportation while here. There are two ATV options: the green John Deere “gators” that seat 4 passengers and the red Bombardiers (aka bombas) that seat 1 or 2 people. We drove out to Polar Bear Point using both ATV types on dirt/mud trails and saw ring seals sunning on the ice as well as several flower species (i.e., Arctic poppy, mountain avens, several saxifrage, a miniature Arctic willow tree, and more) scattered about the ground. We also were able to walk out on the ice within the strait – yes, we walked on the frozen ocean, on the Northwest Passage! It was an amazing feeling.

After lunch, we headed out for a hike to see three waterfalls with guides Catherine and Laurence. The tundra is made up of very hilly terrain that is covered in scree, and is very wet due to the melting snow. It was like crossing a bog in areas. We eventually made it to the waterfalls and gorge that must have had a 100-foot drop. The scenery was amazing. Wide-open space surrounds us. No one else for miles and miles. A wonderful first day in the Arctic.

Days 3 and 4

The weather was bad these two days with rain, temperatures in the low 30's F, and winds with gusts up to 25 miles an hour. However, after a delicious breakfast both mornings several of us headed out past Polar Bear Point on the ATV's toward Cape Marie looking for polar bears. Just last week a female with two cubs was seen in the area while marathon runners were racing. However, after spending approximately 12 hours (6 hours per day) driving around the northern part of the island, much of the time in the rain and staring at the frozen ocean looking for polar bears and beluga whales we didn't see any. We did see several ring seals and a variety of seagulls. Shortly after returning to camp on Day 3 we did spot several adult and baby muskox.

I think the most exciting thing that happened on both days was that I drove a gator with three other passengers on the Northern Passage on solid sea ice!  I was told that the ice is about 4-feet deep and not to worry. However, it was still extremely nerve-wracking and exhilarating at the same time - especially when driving over cracks in the ice ranging between 12”-24” wide in places! This is definitely not something that can be done in many other places in the world, but our guides Catherine and Raph were fantastic in finding the best places to drive on the ice. One day I got one of the gators stuck in mud. Everyone found flat rocks that we used to place under the tires and then Raph used a winch to pull the gator out. Then off we went to find a bit of shelter for lunch. Finding no shelter we lunched in the rain. All part of the adventure of being in the Arctic, I am told.

As stated above, the weather these past two days has been stormy with lots of rain and very strong winds. Although sunny weather is my preferred option, this storm is desired because the rain will melt the sea ice faster than sunshine and the wind will blow the small chunks out to sea allowing the Cunningham Inlet to open up, which will then allow the beluga whales to enter the inlet as they do every summer to nurse their calves, molt, and play.

Day 5

Another day of bad weather (fog, rain, and wind) so in the morning we went for a hike to the waterfalls and after a delicious lunch some of us went river rafting and kayaking with Richard and another

guide, Alex. We had to wear drysuits in case we fell in the water as the water temperature is in the high 30's-low 40's F.  The view of the ice with its various shades of blue was beautiful from the kayak. We also saw a ring seal today, but they are skittish animals and slip quickly into the water even if we are hundreds of feet from them.

This evening we listened to a lecture given by Dr. Valeria Vergara, a beluga whale scientist/researcher from the Vancouver Aquarium. She is here, living in an unheated, leaking yurt about 1 mile from camp for 6 weeks to study the communication between beluga whale mothers and their calves.

Day 6

The weather was a bit foggy today with some wind, but no rain. The ice still has not broken up enough for the beluga whales to use the inlet. Since there are no beluga whales to watch we rafted across the river and went for a hike up to the ridge above Gull Canyon with guides Catherine and Laurans. The hike was wonderful and the view from the ridge spectacular. Black-legged kittiwakes (a gull) were nesting on the crags within the canyon with a few fledglings on the nests. We also saw muskox, an Arctic hare (cute!), eider ducks, long-tailed skua, as well a rough-legged hawk circling overhead.

Trilobite FossilToward the end of our hike we wandered down a shale and rock covered hill and I found a large fossilized trilobite! A trilobite was a small marine animal from the Paleozoic era (360-435 million years old).  Exciting!

In addition, I saw two Arctic woolly bear moth caterpillars today. If any animal gets the prize for perseverance it is this caterpillar. It has an anti-freeze of sorts in its body and freezes every winter then thaws in the summer to feed on Arctic willow, then freezes again in the winter with this cycle continuing for anywhere from 7 to 14 years before it has eaten enough to morph into a moth to mate and die. What a life!

This evening we listened to a lecture given by Richard about his many trips over the past 20 years to the North Pole. I must say that cross-country skiing over rough terrain and floating ice slabs as well as swimming in cold water when the ice starts to melt for 120 days or so with a sled packed with about 360 pounds of supplies/gear in temperatures as low as -50° F does not appeal to me! He said they would eat over 7,000 calories a day and still lose weight. They gauged the temperature as such: it is -31° F when they could gnaw on a stick of butter; it is -40° F when a stick of butter snaps cleanly in two pieces; and it is -58° F when a stick of butter shatters like glass. Adventurers wanting to get to the North Pole eat a lot of butter and macadamia nuts on the excursions due to the high fat and calorie content.


To start planning your own Arctic adventure, contact one of our travel consultants at 1-800-554-9059 or info@otadventures.com - and check out this sample itinerary!

Top Romantic Experiences in New Zealand

New Zealand is full of opportunities to fall in love, and it's diverse landscape offers a little bit of everything.  From beaches to mountains, markets to fine dining, biking through wine regions to tranzalpine train rides, adrenaline to relaxation, stargazing to city sightseeing - whatever your idea of romance, New Zealand has an experience to fit the bill.

With 14 National Parks, 1/3 of New Zealand's land area is contained within the boundaries of a park or reserve.  And these spots are as diverse as they  come, from tropical islands teeming with aquatic life to glaciers that rise from valleys to mountain peaks.  Indulge your dangerous side on the rugged, untamed black sand beaches of the west coast, or relax and kick back in a quiet cove next to golden sand on the east  coast.  With a population of only 4 million, it's easy to find uncrowded spots to create an experience that is truly one-of-a-kind.

Here are just a few ideas that will feel like you've landed in a scene straight out of The Bachelorette:

Hot Air Balloon Ride – Canterbury Plains – what could be more romantic than floating above a patchwork of farms in a fertile valley flanked by snow-capped mountains?  How about floating above a patchwork of farms in a fertile valley flanked by snow-capped mountains while drinking champagne.

Stargazing at Southern Cross – there are few places on earth where you can get a better look at the stars in the night sky than next to Lake Tekapo - part of the UNESCO Dark Sky Reserve.  Pull out a blanket and marvel at the vastness of the universe with your love.

Scenic Flight – Milford Sound  - A scenic flight in Milford sound is sure to thrill and astound you with the amazing scenery of Fiordland.  When you realize what a giant world we live in, you’ll be extra glad to have your one and only by your side.

Ride the rails on a TranzAlpine train journey from Christchurch to Greymouth.  Snuggle up while you watch incredible scenery roll by.


Helicopter ride to a gourmet picnic – First of all, picnics are inherently romantic.  So taking a helicopter flight to the top of a mountain and spreading your blanket out before a majestic view can only increase the romance quotient.

Vineyard trails – Hawkes Bay and Marlborough – we all know wine is romantic.  Enough said.  Pack your picnic basket, grab a bike, and start pedaling toward vino paradise.

Tandem Sky Dive – Queenstown – Allow the adrenaline capital of the world to live up to its name by admiring the amazing sites of Queenstown while you are hurtling through the air.

Boutique lodges – From Christchurch to Auckland, Wellington to Queenstown, boutique lodges and quaint B&B's abound in New Zealand.  Check out the Juliet Balconies at Browns Boutique Hotel in Queenstown or the cottages surrounded by gardens at the Grand Mercure Nelson Monaco.

Rotorua spa treatment – Private hot mineral pool anyone? Get slathered in thermal mud, enjoy a coconut oil massage, and relax in warm, toasty luxury.  Rotorua is considered the cultural heart of New Zealand, so after your mineral soak, you can go bathe in the rich cultural history of the Maori.

Brunch in Wellington – Check out the Chocolate Fish Café, where you can munch on some delicious Kiwi eats and then soak up the sun on side by side beanbags.


Ride horseback on Wainui Beach as the first rays of sun light up New Zealand.  Because is there any other way to start your day?  I mean, really?

Waitomo Glowworm Caves - Float underground, down the Waitomo River and marvel at the unrivaled spectacle of myriad luminescent glowworms twinkling above as you enter the Glowworm Grotto.

Sail in Auckland - Try your hand at sailing or just sit back and enjoy the ride as you admire the "city of sails" from the water.  Hop aboard at twilight for a catered sail or wine tasting cruise.

And of course, an epic sunset or sunrise is always waiting for you somewhere - like this one at Piha Beach near Auckland.

Call us to plan your ultimate romantic adventure!  1-800-554-9059

Wendy's Great Australian Adventure: Part 6

DAY 13 – Port Douglas / Reef

This morning, we grabbed a light breakfast, and walked to the Wharf for our day on the Great Barrier Reef. Steve and I were excited, and Sky was a bit anxious, since it would be her first scuba diving experience
ever! We checked in at the Quicksilver office, and then hopped aboard the Poseidon for our trip out to the Agincourt Ribbon Reef. The check-in process was smooth and organized, as was the paperwork on board, considering they had several groups to cater to – snorkelers, certified divers, and those trying out diving for the first time.

As we motored for about 1 ½ hours out to the Reef, each group was briefed on the plan for the day, and set up with their equipment. Meanwhile, snacks and beverages were constantly on offer (except hot drinks were only available when the boat wasn’t moving). I was SO glad I took seasickness medication…once underway, it was a very rocky trip, and there were a LOT of people on board who weren’t in top condition. The staff of the Poseidon was top notch and professional, as they catered to everyone’s needs.

Steve and I did two dives before lunch, and were in a group of 8 divers with our guide, Zoe, leading the way. She gave excellent briefings, so we knew what to expect and what life we might see underwater, and she was very attentive to the group through the entire process. On the first dive at Castle Rock, we
immediately encountered a large, friendly grouper who seemed to enjoy divers petting and photographing her. Partway through the dive, we looked up to see our little “Sky-fish” swimming above us! She looked perfectly comfortable, all anxiety gone as she kicked along and waved to us. The rest of the dive was really nice…classic Great Barrier Reef with nice coral and lots of life.

Our second dive was around Barracuda Bommie, which was even more like swimming in an aquarium, as the sun shone through for a few moments, and schools of fish swarmed above and around us. We had planned to meet up with Sky and her instructor on the other side of the bommie, so we could take a family photo, and the plan worked perfectly!

We enjoyed a full buffet lunch on board the boat – various salads, sandwich meats with rolls and condiments, and desserts. Hot tea, coffee and cocoa helped us warm up, since it was pretty cool and “blowy” outside. We just relaxed on the boat during the third snorkel/dive of the day.

The boat ride back to Port Douglas was pretty rough again, so everyone was glad to finally get to the wharf and step on solid ground.

We freshened up back at the hotel, and were picked up just before 7pm for our special dining experience,
Flames of the Forest. Our shuttle made several stops at other hotels to pick people up before we reached the dining site, about 10 minutes outside of Port Douglas in the midst of the rainforest. The walk from the shuttle to the pre-dinner site for drinks and canapes was lined with fire torches and tiny white lights draped from the trees. As we were handed a glass of champagne, we looked around to see huge candelabras with dripping candles. Canapes included chicken satay skewers, crocodile mousse on cucumber, and goat cheese with fig. We received an aboriginal welcome from one of the two indigenous brothers who hosted the evening, and he escorted us to the dining site, where we listened to the other brother playing the didgeridoo. We were served 4 courses family style, with several dishes placed in the center of our 8-person table. The dishes were delicious and varied, including prawns, kangaroo, reef fish, chicken, and beef…all accompanied by Australian wine and beer. The brothers periodically came out to play traditional music and tell aboriginal stories, bringing their culture to life for us. It was a special final evening for our time in Australia…we didn’t want it to end!




DAY 14 – Journey Home
We finished up our packing this morning, and had our final breakfast at the Little Larder across the street from Villa San Michele. The food was delicious, and the patio setting was really pleasant.

After checking out of our accommodations, we piled everything into the Corolla and started the drive back
to Cairns Airport. I was finally starting to really appreciate the roundabouts…they just make so much sense! Wish we had more at home.

Dropping the car was easy, just park and leave the key and paperwork in a box. We were running later than planned, so in a bit of a rush to check in and complete the Australia exit paperwork and get through customs and security. Quite a process! Finally on the plane of our journey home…wishing it were Groundhog Day, so we could do it all over again. Guess that just means another trip in our future, with new and exciting experiences in different areas (and maybe repeating some of our favorites, too)!

Interested in having your own Australian Adventure?  Visit our site to view sample itineraries or call us at 1-800-554-9059 to speak with an Aussie Specialist!

Wendy's Great Australian Adventure: Part 5

DAY 11 – Ayers Rock to Port Douglas

Another VERY early morning (I think my family would disown me if these early morning wakeup calls didn’t lead to something memorable every time!). We were picked up at 6:15am by Denny from SEIT Tours, a small group touring company that operates in Ayers Rock. Our group was only 9 people…from the USA (just the 3 of us), England, and Australia. We’ve been impressed by the number of Aussies we’ve come across who are playing tourists in their own country…way more than the handful of Americans we’ve met.

Our first stop was a sunrise viewing platform, which looks out to both Uluru and Kata Tjuta. This is a popular site for many tour groups and independent travelers, since the platform was buzzing with chatter by about 15 minutes before sunrise. Sadly we were skunked by cloud cover again.  We missed out on the brilliant colors, but it was still impressive to see the rocks come to life. They looked painted against the morning sky, and a camera just couldn’t do that justice (although we certainly tried!), so the detailed image will have to rest in our minds.

We continued on to a picnic stop with the Kata Tjuta domes in full view, and enjoyed our outback breakfast (raisin toast, cereal, fruit, tea, coffee, cocoa and juice). Denny gave us a detailed explanation of the geology, drawing in the red sand to illustrate as she spoke. We then drove a short distance to the entrance of the Walpa Gorge. We learned why it is called that, since Walpa is the name for “wind” and there was no shortage of that! It was VERY cold and “blowy” through the gorge this morning, so I was happy to have my extra layers: long johns under my pants, and triple layers on top with a sleeved shirt, fleece, and Patagonia Nano jacket…and of course a beanie hat, scarf and gloves! The walk only took about an hour, and isn’t particularly strenuous, but it’s on uneven/rocky ground most of the way (with a few interspersed stairs and walkways). Denny gave us a lot of information about the Aboriginal history and the plant life, and pointed out special features of the domes. They are absolutely massive up close, and the gorge has a mystical feel to it…really a unique experience.

We were dropped back at our hotel just after 11am, and had a little time to hit the town square again for lunch at a café where they train aboriginals in food/beverage service, and a bit of shopping.

The shuttle picked us up this afternoon for the short drive to the airport to catch our Qantas flight to Cairns. The airport is quite small, but they do have a bit of food and shopping available. The flight itself was only 2 ½ hours, and we were given a full meal, but no entertainment.

On arrival in Cairns, we picked up a Hertz standard size rental car (Toyota Corolla) for our 1-hour drive north to Port Douglas. It was already dark by our 6:30pm arrival, so it was nice to have Steve checking the map and navigating for me.

Our accommodation is Villa San Michele, which is discreetly set amongst shops and restaurants on one of the main streets of town. The entry drive is a bit hidden, so we parked on the street and found our apartment, then parked the car in the free underground parking garage. We are in a 1-bedroom unit with 1 bathroom, kitchen, living space (set up with a cot for Sky), and balcony over the courtyard/pool. The property has a great location, if you like being in town (and it’s not too noisy), and offers free laundry. Due to our late arrival, we didn’t venture far for dinner, and tried Bucci, right next to our apartment building. We were really impressed…super friendly staff, and the food was fantastic (barramundi for Steve, risotto with scallops for me, and spaghetti with meatballs for Sky). The place was also packed, which was a great sign for a Tuesday night.

Ready to start our rainforest adventure tomorrow!

DAY 12 – Port Douglas / Daintree Rainforest
We were running a little behind this morning, so just grabbed some breakfast sandwiches for “takeaway” before our Daintree Dreaming tour, which features local art, aboriginal culture, and the Mossman Gorge and Rainforest. The order of activities is tidal dependent, so today our mini-bus of 12 started with an art lesson.

We visited the Janbal Aboriginal Art Gallery and met the main artist, Binna. He explained his style of

aboriginal art, and gave us some background about his family and the art culture in Australia. We were each provided with a small square canvas and a thin bamboo stick, pointed at one end and flat/round at the other, which was to be our only painting utensil. We had only 3 paint colors – a burnt red for land, a mustard yellow for sun, and white for rain. After about 30-45 minutes, our masterpieces were complete! Not sure our little family will be opening an art gallery anytime soon, but there were some impressive little works of art in our group…amazing how different they each were!

We headed to Mossman Gorge next, and started at the Visitor Centre. High up near the ceiling of the entryway was a HUGE female golden orb spider…just a local resident that happened to find a home here. Her tiny male counterpart was on the web next to her, probably not aware of his fate as her dinner…after he helps her produce baby spiders, of course.

The Mossman Gorge shuttle transported us to the start of the walk, which was an easy meander on a designated pathway for just about an hour. Our guide for the day, Dean Nulty, was fantastic…providing us with information about the various flora and fauna we passed. He has an extensive aboriginal background, and in fact teaches other guides. We stopped for about 20-30 minutes to swim in the chilly river before heading back to the Visitor Centre for lunch.

Our afternoon was a truly memorable experience. We went to Cooya Beach, which is a traditional fishing ground for the local aboriginal Kuku Yalanji people. Brandon, one of the Kubirri Warra brothers, took us out to the beach and into the mangrove to show us how to collect mud crabs, mussels, and other local delicacies. All 3 of us caught a crab…I was so proud of us! After a couple of hours, we returned to Brandon’s house, and he cooked up our catch…it just doesn’t get any fresher than that! Needless to say, it was a yummy (albeit VERY messy) feast on the balcony of Brandon’s home.

We headed back to Port Douglas with a new experience under our belts, and feeling that we had accomplished something and learned a lot. Great day!

Interested in having your own Australian Adventure?  Visit our site to view sample itineraries or call us at 1-800-554-9059 to speak with an Aussie Specialist!

Wendy's Great Australian Adventure: Part 4

DAY 8 – Darwin and the Ghan

We got an early start this morning, and took the scheduled Ghan bus transfer to the railway station. It was quite a large bus with an elderly group of primarily Aussies, excited to get to the train for their journey south.

Upon arrival at the Darwin station, our suitcases were offloaded from the bus and transferred to the train, while we stayed on the bus. The bus then drove along the rail platform, dropping guests off at their assigned train car. The train itself is 774 meters long (around 2200 feet), so the drop-off saves guests a long walk in the heat!

The train itself is immaculately maintained, with a friendly and helpful crew to welcome you on board. The Gold Twin cabin is quite small, but the space is well used. It has a nice bench seat and table for relaxing during the journey, enjoying the view from the wide window in the cabin. The walkway has windows every few yards, so you can leave your cabin door open, and get views on both sides. The private bathroom is small, but again, uses the space well. There is a toilet, sink and shower all in the one room…with a shower curtain to protect the toilet/sink areas when showering…there is surprisingly a decent amount of room for a shower.

The single cabin is downright tiny, with one small bench seat, a stool/footrest, and a sink that folds down. The cabins do not have their own bathroom, so they share the showers and toilets with other single cabin travelers in the same car. Once the bed is down, the door doesn’t fully open…but it is a cozy setup.

There is a lounge car, which fills up immediately with guests wanting to enjoy a beverage and the company of their fellow travelers.  Dining is in the Queen Adelaide car, with white linen table settings, and a menu of several courses (including options for each course).

We stopped in Katherine for a few hours, and disembarked for a tour that we had selected at boarding. We took the Nitmiluk Gorge Cruise. Several large coaches picked guests up at the Katherine station, and drove us through town (with driver commentary), out to the gorge. The boats each hold about 50 passengers, and cruise leisurely up the river, with entertaining commentary provided by the driver/guide. It was a hot day, but the gorge is beautiful, and well worth a visit. We even saw a few small freshwater crocs relaxing by the shore. The gorge is great for

kayaking/canoeing as well, if visiting the area on your own. We were amazed at the hundreds of flying foxes hanging from the trees at the shoreline, chattering and fanning themselves in the heat.

Back on the train, in time for a drink and dinner. While out of the cabin, the crew comes by to turn down the beds, bunk style…including a ladder and guard for the upper bunk. Ready for a good nights sleep, with the gentle rocking of the train car!

DAY 9 – the Ghan and Alice Springs

We were awakened by a knock on the door, and a cup of coffee and tea for each of us. The sun was not up yet, so we were lucky to see the sunrise over the red center as we chugged along in the train toward Alice Springs.

We arrived into Alice Springs just after breakfast, and hopped into a taxi to our hotel, the Double Tree by Hilton. It’s a bit out of town, so the driver waited and took us back to the central market at

the Todd Mall. It was surprisingly big for a small town, taking up several blocks with arts/crafts and food booths for the most part…only one produce booth to be found. Apparently this weekend is extra busy because of the Beanie Festival going on (yes, the beanies that we wear on our heads in the winter…although these are more like works of art and a price to match). After our sausage lunch and mango sorbet dessert, we walked the 20 minutes or so back to our hotel, along the Todd River (which, according to the map, is “usually dry”).

In the afternoon, we were picked up by an AAT Kings bus for a city tour, A Town Like Alice. Our

driver/guide, Jamie, grew up in the area and was incredibly knowledgeable on all things Alice. We visited the School of the Air (which educates students all over the outback by remote methods), the Telegraph Station, the Royal Flying Doctors Service center and museum, and the Reptile Centre. It was a great way to get around to these sites that are not all in easy walking distance, and gain extra insight from Jamie along the way. The area has a fascinating history and character that just comes to life on a tour like this.

This evening, we walked down the street to the Lasseter Casino, but actually ended up back at our hotel to eat dinner Hanuman, which has a wide variety of Asian/Indian cuisine.

Wish we had more time to spend here in Alice Springs, but will save that for another trip. Tomorrow we push on to Ayers Rock.

DAY 10 – Alice Springs and Ayers Rock

It was an early morning start to catch our AAT Kings bus tour from Alice Springs to Ayers Rock. The entire trip took about 5 hours, including 2 comfort stops. The first stop was for about 25 minutes at a camel farm, where we could grab a breakfast sandwich, coffee/tea, and hop on a camel for a quick ride (but we saved our camel ride for later in the day). Our second stop was also for about 25 minutes at Mt Ebenezer Roadhouse, perfect for a cappuccino and a snack…and photos of the road that seemingly goes forever in either direction, with no civilization in sight outside of the Roadhouse.

Our driver was Gill Cairns, who provided commentary for most of the trip (history, flora, fauna, and suggestions and information about Ayers Rock). She also played a documentary on board about the first aboriginal man who was granted citizenship, as a result of his popular artwork…but his story was rather depressing.

We arrived in Ayers Rock around 1pm, and were dropped off at our hotel, Sails in the Desert. The

hotel lobby has a very welcoming and open feel to it…modern and airy. The actual room section is a bit of a maze, but once we found our room, we were pleased with the large size and local character…although it’s not without its quirks. The most bizarre quirk is that the sheets were loud. Yes, I said loud…strange, I know! The best way I can describe it is that they sounded like crumpling paper every time you moved.

We had a quick walk around the Town Square, and lunch at Gecko’s (mostly pizza, pasta and salads) before we were picked up for our camel ride that would take us to dinner. If you’ve never ridden a camel, this is a MUST! The camel farm in itself is impressive…started by a guy named Chris, who got his first camel at age 15 and was hooked.

They get all their camels from the wild (not a difficult thing to do in Australia, given the huge population of wild camels), and put them through a thorough training program. We had a chance to meet Milkshake, their 5-month old rescue camel, before gearing up…she is adorable, and has a thing for thumb sucking (human thumbs, that is, obviously not her own). There were 5 of us on the ride, and we each had our own camel…sometimes they double up with 2 to a camel, depending on the size of the group. The camels are tethered to each other, front to back, and are accustomed to slowly meandering down the path in a line. The views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta were stunning, and the camels provided constant entertainment. Our cameleer/guide, Chrissy, was fantastic, and has an obvious passion for camels. She talked about camel history in Australia, the camel farm, the flora/fauna, and told a few silly camel jokes…all while riding the lead camel and facing backwards much of the time.

We arrived at the Sounds of Silence dinner site, where the other diners were already enjoying their champagne and canapes (including crocodile and “skippy” – aka kangaroo), and taking photos of us like we were celebrities. After about 15 minutes with the rest of the folks, enjoying the limited sunset (too much cloud cover, unfortunately), we were all invited into the dining area and chose our

seats with a family of 4 and a single lady…all Australian. By then it was mighty chilly, so most of us were bundled up in jackets and scarves/hats to stay warm. There were heaters amongst the tables, but their reach was limited, so warm clothes were a must.

Dinner itself was quite the affair with 3 courses (the main course and dessert were buffet style) and local beer/wine, accompanied by a series of entertainers, including a didgeridoo player, aboriginal dancers, and a star guide. There was a great variety of food to choose from, and the quality was very good (especially the caramelized kangaroo!). As the night came to an end, we were shuttled back to the hotel in the bus, since our camels had long since clocked out for the day.

Interested in having your own Australian Adventure?  Visit our site to view sample itineraries or call us at 1-800-554-9059 to speak with an Aussie Specialist!